Monteverde - Life in the Clouds

Our last day in Monteverde was a little more of the same. We started out with another cloud forest hike, only this time through the other cloud forest. The only way you could really tell the difference, though, was by the muddiness of it all. The Santa Elena Reserve has a lot more mud and is not very well maintained. Probably as a result of this, however, there seem to be far fewer tourists and you can probably enjoy yourselves far more there than at the other reserve, if you can get over the fact that you're going to get muddy.

We hired a guide for this cloud forest hike, which ended up being a complete waste of money. First, the hotel sort of misled us regarding the cost, and it ended up being twice as much as what they had told us, as the price they gave did not include the cost of park admission. However, the tougher part was the family with us in our group had a little 10 year old boy who was acting very much like a little 10 year old boy, making lots of noise and splashing around in the puddles. If we had not already done so many other rain forest hikes and seen so much already, we may have been upset about it. There were also far more people on these trails, which I am sure did not help matters. We did happen to see a snake sitting way up in the forest - the guides had found it at the entry to the park and one of them had trained his telescope on it. Even still, it took some time to really spot it, as it camoflauged itself so well.

After the tour ended, we decided to hike through the forest some more on our own. Almost immediately, we saw more monkeys. I think we also saw some other birds and such, as well, and located a little waterfall that was peacefully rushing along. Overall, I think we did better on our own than with the guide, which was really so different than any of our past experiences. It was this little tour that reminded me that you could have a great guide but you cannot always pick who is on the tour with you, and that can really affect things. However, it was still a lot of fun and we enjoyed ourselves.

In the afternoon, we went on a coffee plantation tour. The other folks that had signed up for the tour did not end up going. So, we had our very own private tour of the plantation, and got to pelt tons of questions at our tour guide about Costa Rica culture and life. He also lifted entire sections from the moview The Bucket List to give us a brief history of coffee, a fact we did not know until we happened to see the movie on our flight home. You gotta love an enterprising tour guide. Overall, this was a really awesome tour, and a nice alternative to all the purely nature/rainforest hikes we had been doing. Plus, we got to meet the actual plantation owner (Don Juan), who is this really old, short man who does not speak a lick of English. He happened to be walking the grounds and saw us there.

And with that, we ended our Costa Rican adventure. Yes, there are gaps (like our trip to the airport where we got stuck for probably 45 minutes because a tour bus in front of us had skidded off the road) and things I probably forgot to mention (like the fact that if you use your credit card to pay the departure tax at the airport, it's considered a cash advance and you get hit with an extra charge by your bank), but I think it covers a lot of it. We hope to go back in maybe a year or two, but that will all depend, I suppose on whether planes are still flying and if they so, how expensive ticket prices are, as will so many of our travel ideas. On the bright side, I was really glad I got to go here while it was still economically feasible and before it became even more touristed than it already is. I wonder how Costa Rica will find a balance between its tourist economy and their ecological endeavors. Hopefully, they are able to achieve it because it would be sad to lose such a beautiful landscape.

Monteverde - From the Air

Early in the morning, we got picked up from our hotel and taken to one of the cloud forests in Monteverde. Monteverde has two "cloud forests," one on either side of the Continental Divide. The clever name for these eco-wonderlands is derived from the fact that they are literally in the clouds. As such, you are generally always walking through a fine mist while you are walking through these areas.

Today was to be our day of breezing through the upper canopy on zip lines like crazy tourists. This notion was completely petrifying to my girlfriend, but I was too tired to be scared. For anyone not familiar with zip lining, there is a series of cables and platforms (about 18 where we were) through an area (in this case a rainforest canopy) and you sort of slide along these cables, from platform to platform at really high speeds. Some systems provide you with a braking lever. Ours, however, left us with only our hands to stop us, as they gave us thick gloves and explained how we had to grip the cable when we needed to stop or slow down. This was by far the hardest part because you never knew if you were going too fast or not fast enough, or when to start braking. As an added bonus, about half-way through, there was a very tall platform where they handed you a rope and they pushed you off, and while it looked and felt like you were plummeting to the ground, the rope you were holding would catch you just before the ground and swing you out into this large clearing. They call it a Tarzan Swing. I called it excitement with gravity.

Zip lining was a nice experience but certainly nothing too exciting for either of us, unless you count the adrenaline rush. However, we were glad we did it so that we could say that we did it. After that little 1 or 2 hour adventure was over, we got to go on a self-guided cloud forest hike, which included (you guessed it) more hanging bridges. By now, though, we had become connoisseurs of these contraptions, comparing and contrasting them. "These seem more stable." "The last ones looked nicer." Etc. We are not sure if we did not see much wildlife on the self-guided hike because all of the nature blended into itself, which seems completely possible, or if it was because only a scant hundred or so feet away crazy tourists were flying and screaming through the air, zip lining their little hearts out. It was probably more likely the latter, or at least a healthy mix of the two.

Next we got a bite to eat, followed immediately by another butterfly garden. However, this one was much larger and had a guide, which was really helpful. The other helpful item was that it stopped raining when we entered the garden and the butterflies became far more active. We learned all of the things we had learned (and forgotten) about butterflies in grade school, as well as a few things we had never known before. For example, some of the design patterns on the backs of butterflies make them look like owls or snakes, or the fact that butterfly wings are covered with scales and they reflect the light and that's what gives them their pretty colors.

After we were finished here, we went up the road a little ways to the Santa Elena Reserve, which is a huge park-like area run by a school, and did some hiking through there for a couple of hours, returning afterwards to where we had gone zip lining to catch the last shuttle out, which we had drop us off in the downtown area so that we could grab dinner, use an ATM, and get some groceries.

According to our handy guidebook, and the map our hotel gave us, Monteverde only has one bank and ATM. Unfortunately for us, the bank closed at 3PM and the ATM had decided it no longer wanted to work. Fortunately, however, we ran into two American teachers on a mission for cash, who had been asking around town and thought they had located a secret ATM. We followed them along in their mission, which ended up proving successful - as we found a little ATM tucked away in a super tiny nondescript room of a strip mall. Cash in had, we went to try and find dinner.

It seems many of the restaurants in the area had changed since the publication of our guidebook, and so, we just found somewhere that looked nice and clean and had dinner. It was nice that the place we picked was across the street from the grocery store and also right next door to the local ice cream parlor, which we also decided to sample.

Tired, well fed, with groceries and cash in-hand, we took a taxi back down the long and bumpy road to our hotel and turned in for the evening.